Friday 3 February 2012

Restaurant DiverXo


Yesterday I went to church and I must have been a good boy lately because God presented himself  to give me  my faith back: Yesterday I went to the restaurant DiverXo.
I know it sounds exagerated. Specially nowadays where the press describes the new creators as semi-gods, who after a quick period of fame, disappear forever. In this case, I'm not refering myself to a person, DiverXo's head chef David Muñoz, but to the whole concept of modern cuisine.

Everyone has given its opinion about the origin of "nouvelle cuisine" and it's brutal development since, thanks to Ferrán Adriá and other chefs. But,  where do we stand  now ? So many youngsters working toughly in kitchens calling themselves chefs, but, what are they producing to keep the pace with this progress ? Many professionals are talking about going back to tradition and devoting their energy to choosing the best quality products.  Is there no more space for creativity in this decade ?  Is the party over ?  No more fun eating ?

I have a small collection of menus from different restaurants I really enjoyed visiting, signed by the chef, the Maître d´ or someone else of the crew. As there is no such menu at DiverXo, I asked a waiter if David Muñz could sign me a text he himself had written  about the new methodology and philosophy of his food. 
He signed :  " The power of creativity. Refine and Redefine. Mariposas en el estómago."

He nailed it. It was exactly what I was thinking while feeling astonished by the 8 dish tasting menu.
Consider essentials: Inform yourself about what is going on, check on what others have done properly in the past, select what you think is appropiate, think of what you want to develop and offer, do some feasibility  calculations, position yourself in the middle of the huracan and then, if you are still convinced that you can offer something surprisingly good day after day, please open a vanguard restaurant.
Then and only then, it will be a real pleasure to invest my money in something worthy.

David's food is global, it's international, it's creative but understandable, it's light, it's deffinitely tasty, the combination of flavours is reasonably complex and it's a lot of fun eating because it doesn't require a technical understanding to fully enjoy.

The dishes are a melting point between spanish-asian-southamerican products and flavours are very well balanced between the sour-bitter limejuice and cest, the sweet-sour tamarindo, the soft spicy ají and the neutral paste of the dim sums.

One last thing. What really made this food a revolutionary experience  for me was the perception of the after taste in food. My tasting buts got hit after each bite several times by the basic tastes in a way it shocked the senses. 

As Anthony Bourdain  says: " It's rediculously good"

Name of the restaurant : DiverXo
Web page: http://diverxo.com/
Head Chef: David Muñoz
Address: Calle Pensamiento 28, Madrid
Tlf : +34 915 700 766





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