Yesterday I went to church and I must have been a good boy lately because God presented himself to give me my faith back: Yesterday I went to the restaurant DiverXo.
I
know it sounds exagerated. Specially nowadays where the press describes
the new creators as semi-gods, who after a quick period of fame,
disappear forever. In this case, I'm not refering myself to a person,
DiverXo's head chef David Muñoz, but to the whole concept of modern
cuisine.
Everyone
has given its opinion about the origin of "nouvelle cuisine" and it's
brutal development since, thanks to Ferrán Adriá and other chefs. But,
where do we stand now ? So many youngsters working toughly in kitchens
calling themselves chefs, but, what are they producing to keep the pace with this progress ? Many professionals are talking about going back to tradition and devoting their energy to
choosing the best quality products. Is there no more space for
creativity in this decade ? Is the party over ? No more fun eating ?
I
have a small collection of menus from different restaurants I really
enjoyed visiting, signed by the chef, the Maître d´ or someone else of
the crew. As there is no such menu at DiverXo, I asked a waiter if David
Muñz could sign me a text he himself had written about the new
methodology and philosophy of his food.
He signed : " The power of creativity. Refine and Redefine. Mariposas en el estómago."
He nailed it. It was exactly what I was thinking while feeling astonished by the 8 dish tasting menu.
Consider essentials: Inform yourself about
what is going on, check on what others have done properly in the past,
select what you think is appropiate, think of what you want to develop and offer, do some feasibility calculations, position yourself in the middle of the huracan and then, if you are still convinced that you can offer something surprisingly good day after day, please open a vanguard restaurant.
Then and only then, it will be a real pleasure to invest my money in something worthy.
David's
food is global, it's international, it's creative but understandable,
it's light, it's deffinitely tasty, the combination of flavours is
reasonably complex and it's a lot of fun eating because it doesn't
require a technical understanding to fully enjoy.
The
dishes are a melting point between spanish-asian-southamerican products
and flavours are very well balanced between the sour-bitter limejuice
and cest, the sweet-sour tamarindo, the soft spicy ají and the neutral
paste of the dim sums.
One
last thing. What really made this food a revolutionary experience for
me was the perception of the after taste in food. My tasting buts got
hit after each bite several times by the basic tastes in a way it
shocked the senses.
As Anthony Bourdain says: " It's rediculously good"
Name of the restaurant : DiverXo
Web page: http://diverxo.com/
Head Chef: David Muñoz
Address: Calle Pensamiento 28, Madrid
Tlf : +34 915 700 766
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